Tag Archives: surfing

Montauk # 29

October 8, 2024 – 9:48 am

Autumn morning 2024 Again Ditch Plains Off-shore easterly Surfers on a chest-high swell Seagulls skating the crest A bright sun No sunglasses Squint Richie Boy thinking Work or surf___ A fishing boat chugging to harbor At least twenty aged surf bums On the break___ We On the beach Richie Boy A friend for almost fifty […]

By Peter | Posted in friends, Poetry, sea | Also tagged , , , , | Comments (0)

18-Foot Waves

August 4, 2020 – 7:30 am

In 2009 Hurricane Bill aimed its fury at the East Coast. Weatherologists predicted a massive tidal surge from the possible category 4 storm and warned of 15-18 foot waves along the coast. Surfers were ecstatic with this possibility of big-time swells, but I recalled the ‘Perfect Storm’ of October 1991, when the wind-driven tides pushed […]

By Peter | Posted in weather | Also tagged , , | Comments (0)

Surfing in Thailand

August 16, 2017 – 9:05 am

I’ve never thought of Thailand as a surfing spot, until seeing the autumn waves on Koh Chang. Growling shorebreak. Some of them had to be rideable and I spotted an ancient surfboard at the nearest hotel. Obviously abandoned, since the deck was wrinkled like a potato chip. First problem. No wax. Undaunted I tucked the board under […]

By Peter | Posted in Sports, Thailand | Also tagged , , , | Comments (0)

Monster Wipe-Out

July 7, 2016 – 10:55 pm

In 1996 Richie Boy flew out to Bali. I met him at the airport. His baggage consisted of a knapsack and three surfboards. “Why so many boards?” “Because one of them is for you.” Richie Boy had come halfway around the world to surf Kuta, Ulu Watu, and G-Land. “Me.” My surfing skills were taxed […]

By Peter | Posted in Asia, semi-fiction | Also tagged , | Comments (0)

Monster Wipe-Out

July 1, 2016 – 12:53 pm

In 1996 Richie Boy flew out to Bali. I met him at the airport. His baggage consisted of a knapsack and three surfboards. “Why so many boards?” “Because one of them is for you.” Richie Boy had come halfway around the world to surf Kuta, Ulu Watu, and G-Land. “Me.” My surfing skills were taxed […]

By Peter | Posted in indonesia, semi-fiction, Sports | Also tagged , , | Comments (0)