May 11, 1990 – Syabru Besi – the Himalayas – Nepal – Journal Entry

Previously published Nov 10, 2020

Before leaving Kathmandu on the bus to Langtang Glacier, Lance and I dropped two valium each. The road was reputed to be extremely treacherous and neither of us wanted to experience the fears.

At Thamel the driver loaded about sixty Nepalese onto the bus along with our guide, Dorge. Our Sherpa porters were on top with the packs. People were leaving the city.

Last night the army had cleared the streets with gunshots. The pre-democracy forces were calling for a change from the monarchy. The generals understood change meant them losing money. A strict curfew is being enforced by the military. Protestors are arrested and shot at without warning.

Lance and I are glad to be leaving the city.

The bus headed north on a paved two-laner and climbed into out of the verdant valley into a narrow steep-sloped chasm. The road was one vehicle wide without any guard rails. Lance was out cold, but I kept looking over the edge. The drop was a cliff and I searched for any bus or car or truck wreckage. I spotted several far below the road. The Nepalese didn’t seem to care about the danger. The Sherpas even less so. Lance remained in a blissful unconsciousness. I joined him.

We finally arrived in Syabru Besi.

Everyone got off the bus.

The porters were tossing down our gear. Dorge directed the effort. One grabbed mine backpack. He threw it to the ground. I heard a clink. I knew it was my A2 Olympus striking the ground hard. I opened the bag and checked the camera.

Broken.

I stuffed it back in the pack, hoping it might mend itself. The valium made delusion easy, as did the altitude.

Lance stumbled from the bus. Drool on his chest. I pointed to the stain.

“Look at your shirt.”

We were twins.

The Valiums had done their work. The New York architect blinked in the high sunlight. Sky scrapping mountains surrounded the small village. Dorge pointed to a restaurant. we were all hungry and the plan was to set out away after lunch. We walked up to a cafe. I couldn’t see inside. Hordes of flies crawled on the glass.

“This place is filthy,” I complained.

“Before filthy. Now only dirty,” answered Dorge.

“Order food. We eat outside.” I shrugged, because from here on in wew would be eating our own food. If we didn’t get sick from this, we never would.

Another bus pulled into the village. Mostly Nepalese, but two more westerners. They were younger than Lance and I and looked in good shape and their equipment seemed to be their own, instead of rented like ours. We were far away from our homes and I ordered a beer. Lance shook his head. He was Jewish and the Tribe don’t have a reputation for drinking like the Irish. We are always home as long as there is beer.

Altitude – 1400 meters

11-11-11-11-18


The Great War of 1914-1918 ended on the 11th minute of the 11th hour or the 11th day of the 11th month of 1918. My grandfather and grandmother were in France, serving as doctor and nurse with the Royal Canadian Medical Expedition. They returned to Maine with German helmets, bayonets, zeppelin debris, and medals as souvenirs of that horrible conflict. My grandfather died shortly after my birth, but my grandmother never spoke of her years tending to the wounded and dying soldiers. She never mentioned how the shooting went on well beyond the ceasefire hour, only how she met my grandfather and how they fell in love.

Today I thank them that I’ve never had to fire a shot in anger and appreciate the sacrifice of the fallen so that I can remain a pacifist.

Bring the troops home.

April 27, 1981 – NYC – Key West – NYC – Journal Entry

April 27, 1981 – NYC – Key West – NYC – Journal

Leave the Mudd Club
Almost 4
Bag in hand
A cab ride
To the Holland Tunnel
No traffic
Stick out my thumb
Cold
Skies threaten snow___
A warming from a Transit Cop
I ignore him
A ride into Jersey
To the Vince Lombardi rest stop on I-95
Another ride from a trucker
To another truck stop___
The promised snow___
A ride to a shitty exit.
A ride to a shittier exit
The snow turns to rain___
I shelter beneath an overpass
Almost Dawn
Cold and wet
Jets overhead
I am close to the Philly airport.
I hail a taxi
The driver takes me to the terminal
I
Cold and wet
Buy a one-way ticket
Air Florida
Plan on hitchhike back to New York___
A two-hour plane ride to Miami
Outside
Sunny
I still wet
Not cold___
A bus to the edge of Miami.
A bus to Florida City.
A ride to Key Largo
Another to Marathon
The last to Key West___
Not wet
Only a little damp
A walk to Hilton Haven road
Friends waiting
One week in Key West
Pina Coladas
Weed
Drinking on Duvall Street
Swimming in shallow water
Watching the sunsets
A subchaser descending from the sky
Warm so warm___
Seven days later
Hitchhike to Miami.
Catch a stand-by flight to JFK.
A limo bus to 59th and 3rd
A taxi to the Mudd Club.
A walk home
I crash into my bed
Drunk and tanned
Winter outside
Dreaming on Key West
I will always
Oh so warm___

The Coast of Maine – Cape Porpoise – 2021

No matter what things don’t change fast on Cape Porpoise___

On The Road – Kerouac – July 2022

Route 6 – The Bear Mountain Bridge

Every trip begins somewhere.

PAGE ONE – ON THE ROAD

I’d been poring over maps of the United States in Paterson for months, even reading books about the pioneers and savoring names like Platte and Cimarron and so on, and on the roadmap was one long red line called Route 6 that led from the tip of Cape Cod clear to Ely, Nevada, and there dipped down to Los Angeles. I’ll just stay on 6 all the way to Ely, I said to myself and confidently started. To get to 6 I had to go up to Bear Mountain. Filled with dreams of what I’d do in Chicago, in Denver, and then finally in San Fran, I took the Seventh Avenue subway to the end of the line at 242nd Street, and there took a trolley into Yonkers; in downtown Yonkers I transferred to an outgoing trolley and went to the city limits on the east bank of the Hudson River. If you drop a rose in the Hudson River at its mysterious source in the Adiron dacks, think of all the places it journeys by as it goes out to sea forever—think of that wonderful Hudson Valley. I started hitching up the thing. Five scattered rides took me to the desired Bear Mountain Bridge, where Route 6 arched in from New England. It began to rain in torrents when I was let off there. It was mountainous. Route 6 came over the river, wound around a traffic circle, and disappeared into the wilderness. Not only was there no traffic but the rain came down in buckets and I had no shelter. I had to run under some pines to take cover; this did no good; I began crying and swearing and socking myself on the head for being such a damn fool. I was forty miles north of New York; all the way up I’d been worried about the fact that on this, my big opening day, I was only moving north instead of the so-longed-for west. Now I was stuck on my northernmost hangup. I ran a quarter-mile to an abandoned cute English-style filling station and stood under the dripping eaves. High up over my head the great hairy Bear Mountain sent down thunderclaps that put the fear of God in me. All I could see were smoky trees and dismal wilderness rising to the skies. “What the hell am I doing up here?”

Filmed by Jacques Haven