July 17, 1994 – Penang – Journal

Kept on playing basketball this afternoon with the Filipino sailors. We beat some Americans but I got brutally sunburned. It’s hotter there than in New York in the summer, but despite being trapped in Penang, I’m actually happy to be here. I don’t really know how I’m going to get out of here. Maybe I’ll ask one of the sailors if I can hitch a ride on this ship as a dishwasher. I’ve never gone to sea. At least pot-walloping shouldn’t be too dangerous and I’m sure there’s some ships traveling to Europe from Penang.

I figured out why Julia is really angry at me last week when I came to a resort on Langewai, she was speaking the Giancarlo. And he had informed her but I had rented my apartment to Cassandra his mistress as their love nest. And it was the truth.

Back in 1991.

I didn’t say anything then, because I was trying to make money for myself and I didn’t think she needed to know about his affair. No Lies ever stays alive forever.

After that I really spoke to Giancarlo. I was wrong I should have told her that I shouldn’t even never done it, but you looked at as another betrayal by the people she loved. He was because of not staying with her when she was sick on the island. I was wrong. I guess my name is s*** to them. Hopefully their daughter Alice well forgive me. After all canopy when you can’t forgive yourself. To forgive his human. To forget is divine.

Why don’t lesbians lisp?

Penang Gone

Sumatra was a lost world in 1990. Tigers prowled the western jungles of Indonesia’s largest island, active volcanoes glowed in the night, and I drank Bintang beer with the ancestors of headhunters on the shore of Lake Toba 1500 meters above the sea and the night air was chilly after months along the equator .

Inside the traditional long houses skulls adorned the main beam of the roof.

Cutting off heads for the Bataks was an ancient tradition, until forbidden by the Dutch government in Java.

Sitting with several men around a fire I realized Jakarta was over a thousand miles away from the highlands. A hundred years ago I might have been a hapless victim of their deadly tradition, but they swore I was safe and the Bataks were renown for being true to their word.

After two weeks on Lake Toba I descended down the slopes to Medan, a Muslim city a little north of equator on the simmering Malacca Straits. The temperature and humidity were both in the 90s. Neither seemed to bother the residents.

That afternoon I booked a flight across the Malacca Straits to Penang in Malaysia.

I arrived there before sunset. I was back in the modern world.

Skyscrapers, telephones, air-conditioning and smooth roads.

I stayed at an old Chinese mansion off Chulia Street. The main travelers’ drag offered good food and old navy bars.

Drinks were cheap.

The women were ugly.

.They liked a good laugh.

The architecture revealed a melting pot of culture.

I loved the call for evening prayers from the mosque.

I drank tuak or palm wine next to the Chinese temple.

The British had left their mark.

Beaches lay the the west.

Durians grew in the jungles.

The city was sleep-walking toward the 21st Century.

But that was then.

Chinese money had woken Penang from the past.

Construction was booming along the coast, as land was reclaimed from the sea.

Only the rich have rights to this dream.

And old Penang will never be old again.

Neither will I.

What a shame.

July 17, 1994 – Penang – Journal

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Rod called and said that he had wired the money to Thomas Cook in Bangkok. But that he had to rewire it to the Hong Kong bank in Penang. I went there. Nothing. I have serious doubts you ever sent it, but I’m not mad. By having money is my responsibility. And I’ve known Rob is a little sketchy sometimes and have since 1990 when since we first me in Paris.

Someone once said, “Never trust anyone further than the point at which they can fuck up. After that the blame is all on you.”

I did and I’m stranded on this island city. Finances aside not such a bad place to be stranded. Across the Malacca Straits is Medan. Hot and humid Indonesian City surrounded by a Sumatra swamp. Penang is Paradise in comparison.

The Cabbage Doll backpackers every place whoring soldiers and sailors of the Royal Navy. No prostitutes Hong Kong bar dream of there being young and are happy when I buy the beer. Tonight I’ll go down there and drink to my heart’s content.

Penang is a crossroad of cultures from around the world. Chinese temples, Malay mosques, the muzzeiens calling out the prayer five times a day from dusk to dawn. Tamil Rickshaw drivers offering ‘massage women and dadah, dopw’. Indian Muslims serve plates a black curry over white rice. Cats snuggle against the alley walls. Tuak drunks huddle under the shelter of an Indian Temple. From the cinema whit -skinned Chinese girls exit like vampire beauty into the night, the transvestites on Leith Street, star fruit juice at night. My money well past the point of no return. I sold my typewriter to get enough money to living money a flight. I only have myself to blame for destitution. Could have taken this safe route and just gone to Central America.

Too late for that option

I read a story about two men scamming an Indian woman to strip naked in front of their grandmother. Have a ruse of their telling their suckers saying they needed her breast measurements to get a free apartment.

Just shows the truth of PT Barnum’s adage, “There’s a sucker born every minute.” has lost nothing during the. Population explosion

In the article the reporter rights that the girl was normal but very naive. Quite an understanding. The second time they tried it where the money changer.

The team, a Chinese man and a Hindu. They had real balls to go up to someone’s daughter to be measured.

They got away with it twice and hope they do because the veniality and genius of the ploy. I’ve never heard of it before.

Dirty men.

July 16, 1993 – Penang – Journal


Over Chulia Street lightning crackles across the tropical purple black night like electric river systems flowing through the sky. A heavy rain cleared away the oppressive humidity. I’m barely sweating I walk by the Hong Kong Bar. The old banci whores hiss at me to join them in a drink. My No Beer Week continues. I smile back and shout back, “Esok kita minum.”

‘Tomorrow we drink’. Malay is the easiest language in the world. No articles or a need for tenses.

I went to bed early at 11:00, listening to the BBC on my world band radio. Danny, the owner of the Swiss Hotel said that this afternoon Rob called to say the money hgoing to be sent to the HK Bank on Beach Street and the ticket should be forthcoming. Being short on rations I’ve trimmed another 5 lbs. for my girth and with my embargo on beer I might lose all of the fat cells around my waist, but I’m recovering from my long binge.

Don Drysdale still died at only 56.

Only another 15 years until I’m that old although I’ll never be a Hall of Famer. Newsweek published an article about risks to men. To the average impact zone for a male at 41 exercising moderately, a little overweight, smoking pot and drinking are not a death sentence. No mention of drugs. I can’t change that my father has a history of heart problems. So quitting drink and losing weight might gain a chance to be a septuagenarian, for quitting might save my life like the antagonist of Hardy’s Mayor of Castle Bridge, who had not taken a drink for 20 years.

It’s been six days, since I had a drink. I reckon I can make it the week. The great God beer is calling my name. Singing me a siren song beer beer beer beer beer beer beer beer. I’ll be drinking a few at the Hong Kong bar on Chula Street. I heard music in the air like I was listening to God.

Penang Funicular

In 1994 I was stranded in Penang, Malaysia. The magazine for which I had been writing a series of stories about SE Asia had folded without buying my return ticket to the States. I had enough money to stay at the Swiss Hotel $3/night, eat at the Chinese and Indian restaurants on Chulia Street, and drink beer at the navy bars. In those days making a phone call to Europe was difficult, but I finally reached Sam Royalle, who said he would wire the money. A week went by and then a second. I couldn’t get in touch with him. I was down to my last $100 dollars and thinking about shipping out on a tramp steamer when the wire finally arrived at the bank.

I celebrated by taking the Penang Hill Funicular to the summit. The tram ascended from the tropical city to the heavily forested mountaintop. The temperature dropped at every stage and on arrival I was actually cold. A difficult proposition near the equator.

The best attraction other than the view was the walk through the treetops on suspended bridges. Nothing like it in Thailand and I made a point of visiting the tram during every visa run to Penang.

But n 2009 this venerable funicular was threatened by renovation. Stations and trains were to be replaced by new designs, so that the travel time to the top is a mere 10 minutes rather than the luxurious 30 minutes of the original tram.

Outcry from sentimentalist and traditionalists have protested this move as unnecessary, contenting that refurbishing would be more economically and environmentally viable.

Personally I say, “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.” and I liked most everything the way it is and that goes for me too, since I was considering a neck tuck costing $6000 at a Bangkok Hospital. I intended to save the money for a motorcycle instead. That always makes an old guy look young, unless he wears leather. Then it looks like an old geezer on a bike.

Something very unnatural.

Protests aside, in Asia if something was planned and the money was there, then it was goodbye to the old.

In 2010 the renovations were completed on the Penang Funicular.

Progress, but more like improvements, so if you’re in Penang head over to the Funicular, the best ride this side of the Staten Island Ferry.