Bali 1993.
Richie boy and I hired a guide to take us to this spot. The aussie swore it was surfable.
We looked at the break. The waves were double-overhead, but we saw coral heads above the water.
Richie Boy and I said ‘no go’.
The aussie said we were wimps. he took off on the first wave and stoved in his ribs on a gnarly coral head.
He came out of the water holding his side. “Mates, I was wrong.”
Richie Boy and I agreed with him and took him to the hospital.
He was a good Aussie and shared the painkillers with us.
The bar at Tubes was much better that way.